The lower left of the "main disconnect" area has a 60A breaker. I hope the builder really enjoyed the frappucino he financed by sticking you with a small panel. Fortunately your panel is also Murray, which is quality. (In some configurations it has five, as indicated by the label, that's why the "service disconnect" sticker is so tall). Your panel is a cheapie and only has four. So builders proposed this type of panel, with up to six of the cheaper <=60A breakers, which together are the "main breaker", rule of six. Houses had been single main breaker, but breakers larger than 60A were prohibitively priced. There's a rule that you have to be able to cut power to a building with six breaker throws. If the existing cables won't quite reach, you can splice them inside the existing panel, with that panel eventually becoming a large junction box when the the subpanel becomes your main panel. With a new larger (sub)panel, you can do that easily.
60 AMP SUB PANEL COST CODE
Code generally allows you to keep the old stuff as-is, but for safety's sake, as well as if you do other upgrades (e.g., bathroom or kitchen remodel), you may want and/or need to make those upgrades at some time.
60 AMP SUB PANEL COST FULL
While you can add GFCI at the first receptacle in each chain and get full protection, and you can add AFCI in a separate box, it is a lot easier to put in breakers. Since you said "I am maxed out on breakers, as every 110v breaker is now a tandem breaker.", there is no way you can add GFCI or AFCI breakers right now. Then once you have everything moved you make the subpanel into your main panel, add a neutral-ground bond, and get rid of the old main panel. But this way you don't have to spend it all at once. Moving all those circuits is the big cost, particularly if you use the opportunity to add GFCI and/or AFCI as appropriate. A big (like 42 space) panel might cost you an extra $100 or $150 now compared to a small panel, but will allow you to gradually move circuits over time. However, you should put in a really big panel - i.e., big enough that it can eventually be your new main panel. One of the pros will give a long detailed answer, I'm sure.īut the short answer (from reading all their long detailed answers over many months) is that provided the existing panel is in decent shape, you can replace an existing double-pole breaker with a bigger breaker for a subpanel and use that subpanel to power several circuits, as you described. But I feel like I am missing something here.
In my uneducated brain, this makes sense. Then I could feed the stove (old 220v 30 amp) from the new subpanel, as well as the adding a new 220v 20 amp breaker for the new table saw. I was thinking (as a layman) that I could remove one 220v (30 amp) breaker from the main panel and put in a 220v (60 amp) breaker to feed a subpanel.
60 AMP SUB PANEL COST UPGRADE
Line slack is not a consideration here.Ĭan I add a subpanel to my current panel? Or should I bite the bullet and upgrade the service to 200 amps? I can't really afford the full panel upgrade though.I need a 220v (20 amp) circuit and a 110v (15 amp) circuits run to my garage.They are rated for, at least, 200 amps already. When other homes in my area have upgraded to 200 amp service, they did not replace the feed lines.I am maxed out on breakers, as every 110v breaker is now a tandem breaker.I have 125 amp service that is fed via overhead lines to a center fed panel.
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